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Skill Level: Experienced
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Gauge: 5.25 stitches per inch 7 rows per inch Stitch Explanation: K—knit P—purl st(s)—stitch(es) St st—stockinette stitch inc—increase arnd—around rnd—round sl—slip ssk—slip 1 st, k 1 st, pass slip st over K2tog—knit two together Size: Extra small, small, medium, large, extra large. Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning. Finished chest: 34 (36, 38, 40, 42) in. Finished length: 22 (22 ½, 23, 23, 23 ½) in.
Wind two bobs each with black yarn. You will not need more than a couple of yards per bob.
For the first style, which leaves less of an open back, evenly space the eight stitch markers all the way across the back. The vertical lines on the diagram below indicate where to place the stitch markers.
 When attached thusly, the straps will look like this:
 Second strap style: For the second style, place one stitch marker at the halfway point of the back. Measure an inch or so out to the left of this marker and place one marker there. Measure the same distance out to the right of the center marker and place one marker there. Remove the center point marker so you will not mistakenly attach a strap to that point later. You have now marked where the innermost straps will attach. Now, attach one marker an inch or so in from the left edge of the garment. Repeat for the right edge. You have now marked where the outermost straps will attach. Attach two more markers, evenly spaced, between the innermost and outermost markers on the left side. Repeat for the right side. To make it easier, simply refer to the diagram below. The vertical lines indicate where to place the stitch markers.
 When attached thusly, the straps will look like this:
 Front: Work as for back till armholes measure 7 (7 ½, 8, 8½, 9) in. Shape armholes: Cast off 1 st at beg of every row 8 times—62 (68, 74, 80, 86) sts. Divide front: Next Row: K across first 27 (29, 32, 34, 36) sts; then, joining 2nd ball of yarn and working both sides at once, cast off center 8 (10, 10, 12, 14) sts. P 1 row. Cast off from each neck edge 3 sts 2 (2, 3, 3, 5) times, 2 sts 2 (3, 3, 4, 2) times, and 1 st 5 times—12 sts. Work even till armhole measures 7 (7 ½, 8, 8½, 9) in. Do not cast off. Straps: Put 12 sts from left front on a holder. Put 9 sts from the armhole edge of the right front on a holder. Transfer the remaining 3 sts, the ones on the neck edge, to a double pointed needle. Work either flat or in I cord until the strap just reaches the farthest stitch marker on the back. Cast off. Do not attach strap to back. Transfer the next closest 3 sts to the dpn and work either flat or in I cord until the strap just reaches the second farthest stitch marker on the back. Cast off. Do not attach strap to back. Transfer the next closest 3 sts to the dpn and work either flat or in I cord until the strap just reaches the third farthest stitch marker on the back. Cast off. Do not attach strap to back. Transfer the final 3 sts on the left front stitch holder to the dpn and work either flat or in I cord until the strap just reaches the fourth farthest stitch marker on the back. Cast off. Do not attach strap to back. Repeat this process for the right front. You may attach these straps if you wish; it may make it easier to layer the straps in the next step. Lattice layer straps: Arrange the eight straps in a lattice, or basketweave pattern. You may find it easier if you have the straps on one side already attached, but that will hinder you if you decide to use a different pattern than the one shown. Once you have crossed the straps according to the pattern, sew them to the marked places on the back. I found it helpful to weave the loose ends into the straps and shirt itself for added strength. Weave in loose ends; block. | ||||||||||||||||||