aka X Back Tank Top Pattern
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Skill Level: Advanced Intermediate
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Gauge: 4.5 stitches per inch 6 rows per inch Stitch Explanation: K—knit P—purl st(s)—stitch(es) St st—stockinette stitch inc—increase arnd—around rnd—round sl—slip ssk—Sl two sts, one at a time, as if to K. Slide the left needle into the front loop of both sts and K them together. K2tog—knit two together Size: Extra small, small, medium, large, extra large, extra extra large. Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning. Finished chest: 31 (34, 37, 40, 43, 46) in. Finished length: 22 (22, 22 ½, 23, 23, 23 ½) in.
The Nine Inch Nails logo may be knitted into the shirt in intarsia (using 2 place markers to center it across the front), or you may sew it on in duplicate stitch later (using 2 stich markers to center it across the completed fabric of the front). I found it easier to attach it later since I didn't feel like trying to work the logo and deal with the decreases at the same time. I designed the front of the shirt to have an odd number of sts so that the logo, which is 17 sts across, will be perfectly centered. Bear this in mind if you alter the pattern. Wind yarn bobs with white CottonEase if you are working the logo in intarsia. You will not need more than a couple of yards per bob.
With circular needles, cast on 108 (118, 128, 138, 148, 158) sts, placing a place marker after 54 (59, 64, 69, 74, 79) sts. Join, being careful not to twist work. Place marker to indicate end of round. Work in seed stitch (or other ribbing pattern) if desired 1 inch. Switch to stockinette stitch and work even for 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) inches or until work measures 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4) in (about 18 [18, 18, 24, 24, 24] rounds).
I will take time out here to include instructions for the logo. The front of the shirt is confusing enough without sticking instructions for the logo in the middle of it. Begin the logo wherever you wish, bearing in mind that it is a couple of inches high—take care to leave room for all of it with at least an inch above it. You may work in intarsia in the round if you wish, or, to keep it simpler, you may wish to wait until you have begun the armholes before starting the logo so you can work it back and forth. Personally, I think it's far simpler to just sew the logo on in duplicate stitch when the shirt is completed. If you are working in intarsia, center the logo over the front, using two place markers to indicate the first and last sts of the logo. If you decide to sew the logo on later, mark where the first and last sts of the logo will be with stitch markers. This is the chart:
 This is the legend to the chart.
 Now, back to your regularly scheduled pattern.
The next round sets up the separation of the front and back; from here on you will work the front and back separately. Next round: Work across 57 (63, 69, 75, 81, 87) sts for the front, cast off 9 (10, 11, 12, 12, 13) sts (for the back right armhole), knit 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 14) sts and move these 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 14) sts to a stitch holder (for the back right), cast off 12 (13, 13, 15, 15, 17) sts (for the center back), knit 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 14) sts and move these 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 14) sts to a stitch holder (for the back left), cast off 9 (10, 11, 12, 12, 13 sts (for the back left armhole). The 57 (63, 69, 75, 81, 87) sts remaining on the needle are for the front and will be worked back and forth; you may switch to straight needles if you wish.
Here you will separate the front of the shirt into its left and right sides. Using a cable needle as described to twist a couple of sts at the divide will help prevent the center front from stretching horizontally. K1, ssk, K14 (17, 19, 21, 23, 26), K2tog, K1—18 (21, 23, 25, 27, 30) sts. Move next 3 sts to cable needle and hold in back. K next 2 sts from left needle—22 (23, 25, 27, 29, 32) sts for left front. Move 3 sts from cable needle back to left needle and cast off 1—24 (25, 27, 29, 31, 34) sts left for right front. Join new yarn and work the left and right front simultaneously. Work one decrease row for right front as follows:
Move the 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 14) sts from the right back strap to the needle. Decrease 1 st at beginning of each row for 4 (5, 2, 3, 2, 0) rows—6 (6, 10, 10, 12, 14) sts. Work even till strap is 1 in. less than desired length. The strap needs to be shorter than desired to allow for stretch. Transfer the 6 (6, 10, 10, 12, 14) sts to one dpn. Transfer the 6 (6, 10, 10, 12, 14) sts from the left front strap to another dpn. Graft the right back strap to the left front strap. Or, if you do not wish to graft the straps, cast off the 6 (6, 10, 10, 12, 14) sts from the right back strap and sew the right back strap to the left front strap.
Move the 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 14) sts from the left back strap to the needle. Decrease 1 st at beginning of each row for 4 (5, 2, 3, 2, 0) rows—6 (6, 10, 10, 12, 14) sts. Work even till strap is 1 in. less than desired length. The strap needs to be shorter than desired to allow for stretch. Transfer the 6 (6, 10, 10, 12, 14) sts to one dpn. Transfer the 6 (6, 10, 10, 12, 14) sts from the right front strap to another dpn. Graft the left back strap to the right front strap. Or, if you do not wish to graft the straps, cast off the 6 (6, 10, 10, 12, 14) sts from the left back strap and sew the right back strap to the right front strap.
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