Basic Socks Pattern

These instructions are for a medium-sized sock. To make a smaller or larger size, adjust your needle size accordingly. Don't forget that the length may also vary.

I have italicized the steps that I tend to forget. This is as much for my own reference as yours.

I have included instructions for how to graft the toe stitches together. There are different methods of doing this; this is the one that works best for me. I strongly recommend that, whichever method you prefer, you finish the toe of the sock without any outside interruption. It won't take more than a few minutes, but skipping a step can completely fuck up the toe.

Pattern:

Cuff:
With smaller double pointed needles, cast on 32 sts (divided with 10 sts on needle #1, 12 sts on needle #2, 10 sts on needle #3). Join, being careful not to twist work. Place marker to indicate end of round. Work in K1P1 rib for 12 rnds.

Leg:
Change to larger double pointed needles. Work in St st until piece measures 6 inches or desired length.

Heel flap:
Note: The heel flap is worked with only half of the sts, worked flat with two double pointed needles instead of in the round. The other half of the sts remain on their respective needles until the flap is done and you pick up and join again. Thusly, for working the heel flap flat, "turn" means you are turning the fabric of the heel flap over and working back across just as you would in flat knitting.

Next row—K8, place remaining sts on needle #2, turn.
Next row—Slip 1, P7 plus 8 more sts from needle #3. Divide instep sts evenly on 2 double pointed needles to be worked later. Work heel flap in St st for about 2½ inches (14 rows), always slipping first st of each row, ending with a RS row. Note: You should have 7 loops along the sides (1 loop for every 2 rows).

Turn heel:
Next row (WS)—Slip 1, P8, P2tog, P1, turn.
Next row (RS)—Slip 1, K3, ssk, K1, turn.
Next row (WS)—Slip 1, P4, P2tog, P1, turn.
Next row (RS)—Slip 1, K5, ssk, K1, turn.
Next row (WS)—Slip 1, P6, P2tog, P1, turn.
Next row (RS)—Slip 1, K7, ssk, K1, DO NOT TURN—10 sts rem.

Here you will begin to work in the round again. Pick up and knit 7 sts along side of heel plus 1 st at the intersection of the needles. Knit across instep sts onto one needle. Pick up and knit 1 st at intersection at other side plus 7 sts along edge, plus knit 5 sts from heel onto same needle. Note: Beg of round should be at center of heel. Place the 2 sts that you picked up at the intersection (one on each side) on the instep needle.
Next row—On needle #1, k sts; on needle #2, ssk at beg of needle and K2tog at end of needle to dec those 2 extra sts (this prevents a hole that may form at this place).

Gussets:
Rnd 1: K to last 3 sts of needle #1, K2tog, K1; on needle #2, k across, on needle #3, K1, ssk, K to end.
Rnd 2: K even.
Repeat rnds 1 and 2 until 32 sts rem.

Foot: Work even in St st to desired length, leaving about 1½ inches–2 inches for toe shaping. (If you have long feet as I do, you may need to knit more. I recommend trying the socks on as you go.)

Toe:
Rnd 1: K to last 3 sts of needle #1, K2tog, K1; on needle #2, K1, ssk, k to within 3 sts of end, K2tog, K1; on needle #3, K1, K2tog, K to end.
Rnd 2: K even.
Repeat rnds 1 and 2 until 16 sts remain. Divide sts evenly onto 2 needles. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail.

Graft toe stitches:
You should have 16 sts; 8 sts on each of two needles. Break yarn, leaving a tail of 12-18 inches, and thread yarn needle with it.

Note: Hold the sock so that the heel faces away from you. Do not turn the sock as you work on it.

Grafting preparation:
Draw the yarn through the first stitch on the front needle as if to purl and leave it on the needle.
Draw the yarn through the first stitch on the back needle as if the knit and leave it on the needle.

Grafting steps:

1. Draw the yarn through the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit; slip it off the needle.
   
2. Draw the yarn through the next stitch on the front needle as if to purl; leave it on the needle.
   
3. Draw the yarn through the first stitch on the back needle as if the purl; slip it off the needle.
   
4. Draw the yarn through the next stitch on the back needle as if to knit; leave it on the needle.