Moles

Mole is not a specific dish but rather a generic name for many sauces used in Mexican cooking, as well as the dishes based on the sauces. Moles are quite diverse, but all of them include chiles and various spices. Some also include chocolate.

The "holy trinity" of chiles used in mole consists of ancho, guajillo, and pasilla chiles. If you cannot find one, you may substitute another similar chile. Anchos are dried poblano peppers; they may be substituted for guajillo or pasilla negro chiles and vice versa. Guajillo chiles are long and thin with a smooth texture; pasillas are similar in shape but with a wrinkled texture. You can find dried chiles in the produce section of the grocery store or the spice aisle. Also, if all else fails, you may use a little ground chili powder—only make sure it is true chili powder, not the kind that has other spices mixed in with it.

Chocolate also features in many moles, but it is not present in all of them. Chocolate, added at the end of cooking so as not to scorch, serves to balance the heat of the chiles, plus it adds thickness and consistency to the sauce. It is important to use Mexican chocolate, such as Ibarra, rather than regular baking chocolate, because Mexican chocolate is spiced differently. I recommend Ibarra over the other brands of Mexican chocolate because it is made in Mexico, unlike the other brands of so-called Mexican chocolate available in my grocery store.

Mole may be served fresh, but as I note in the recipes, it is more flavorful if left in the refrigerator overnight and then reheated. Mole also freezes well; you can make a large batch of mole and keep it in the freezer for several months. You can also use the leftover sauce for tamales, enchiladas, or spooned over eggs for brunch.

While mole involves a long list of ingredients and must be pureéd, it is not particularly difficult. The first time you make it, read the recipe carefully and allow several hours. The next time you make it, it will go much more quickly. For instance, the first time I made mole poblano, I spent half the day on it to make sure I did everything right. The next time I made it, it only took half an hour, not counting the time the mole had to simmer.